Fairhead - The best climbing in the UK?

 

Having been told by all Northern Irish people I had met that this was by far the best crag in the UK, I thought I should probably go and find out if I agreed. I climbed with Kevin for a couple of days this winter in the Cairngorms and having had lots of fun and adventures we hatched a plan for a trip to Fairhead. Kevin was the perfect guide, knowing the crag well with inside knowledge of the fairhead grading and what was clean. This is something I would recommend, local knowledge is definately helpful at Fairhead or I would have jumped on a few things that are far out of my abilities and spent much more of the day trying to work out where to ab into my route. He also picked me up, provided food (thanks to Tollymore), sleeping facilities, transport so I just packed harness, helmet, shoes and chalk and plenty of psyche.

 

We started gently on the bally castle descent gully and soon got on a route which was not totally of fairhead style, Run fast run free E3, with a jump in the middle and a strange eliminate start.

 

Kevin getting gear before the crux on Run fast, run free.

 

I was loving the interest and long sustained climbing at fairhead, so was keen to get on the longest face... Am Bealach Runda it was... meaning the secret way and it definately was. Most of my chimney moves and squirming has been in winter, so I put it to practise on this route.

Kevin seconding the first chimney pitch inside the amazing hexagonal pillars.

 

Me pulling some chimney drop knee moves.

This was a great start to the trip, we finished, ate and made excited plans for the next day.

Me on the fantastic Hurricane putting in a struggle as I found out Kevins hand jams were off widths for me. I resorted to some strenuous laybacking up the crux of this one.

Doldrum

As if we hadn't done enough at six in the evening we thought we would just ab in for another 3 pitch route, with the rain spitting, above... ah it will clear up!

So some of this route had fallen away last year and been upgraded to E2, we think we actually did the second ascent after the rock fall and regrading. Kevin was keen to get on this crazy offiwdth chimney, I was keen for a challenge as long as the rope was above me on this pitch. Very excited to see the size 6 cams in action.

Kevin starting up the chimney pitch with the rack of gods. This was a crazy route, I used every move in the book and more and the upper section turned to an ice rink in the rain. Awesome lead by kevin, we came out stinking of pond and throughly shattered. Fish and chips and beer in Bally castle were in order.

 

The next day at The Prow was an active rest day after leaving bally castle at 1am in the morning and waking to find every muscle and more were aching. Whilst at the crag we met a friendly pigeon and Kevin tried to teach it about off widths and cams.

 

And the proceeded to get on another one... there is unfinished business there.

The last day started on the Stoat, which i decided needed some cleaning attention before I was going to make further progress on, so we finished up Hell kitchen before the rain set in. We got away with alot of threatening spitting all week but it properly rained this time. Thankfully we were tired and satified so enjoyed the cafe.

 

So to answer my initial question, I think so far it might have to be, there is so much potential at fairhead and totally absorbing massive steep strenuous different climbing. I will definately back! 

April Alpine trip

 

April had arrived already, so I set off for the alps with the hope of some climbing and ski touring and hopefully some sun. The result was some sun.. some snow a little too much time on the planks and not so much climbing but still a good trip.

I certainly learnt a good few life lessons on this trip and gained some good ski touring experience in slightly challenging conditions.

 

A good couple of days on the Verbier haute route with guy.

 

Guy on the summit ridge to Rosa Blancha

Two nights in the Dix hut so we went for this peak, which I had aspired to climb when walking the Chamonix Zermatt haute route with my Mum as a teenager.

 

 

 Following this there was an atempt on a north face, and some sunny rock climbing and relaxing in the valley before I set off on another tour this time to the Bernese Oberland with Matt. The weather forecast was looking variable but we went for it and achieved more than we expected.


The first day up the from the Jungfraujoch train to the monchjochhut was a full on scottish winter skin, thankfully there were poles to follow and a hut to hide in. Then the weather cleared and we headed to the Gross Fischerhorn with an open mind as we didnt know how much snow and fresh windslab we might have to avoid. I broke trail in to the climb to the col and we noticed some unnerving whumphing sounds under our feet but the steep ascent was fairly scoured.

Matt on the rocky ridge up to the Gross Fischerhorn

Very quick summit shots on the Gross Fischerhorn looking to the Kleine Fischerhorn and Grun horn, before a rapid descent to get down the dangerous crevased section of the glacier Walliser Fischerfern before the visibility left once again and the weather closed in.

The most gripping descent I have done yet... similar to a roller coaster, with sections of track missing and no seat belt. Thankfully the cloud stayed off until we were down on the flat of the glacier. Matt on the right on the final friendly section after negotiating some rather thin snow bridges.

 

 

Skinning up to the Gross GrunHorn, many thanks to the guide who broke trail all the way!

 

 

Narrow snowy summit ridge.

Woop woop...Pow pow, amazing descent 900m fresh tracks.

 

In high spirits we set off for the 8km gradual ascent to the Holandia hut... spirits were slightly lower by the time we got to the hut but the warm welcome from a friend of matts, the guardian in the Holandia hut made up for it.

Final day setting off from the lovely, friendly Holandia hut up to Mittaghorn for a descent we have been told about all week.

More Pow Pow.. photos from Nicolas who we befriended in the hut and have persuaded to return for another go at Scottish winter this coming year. I couldn't leave him put off after a wet and windy visit in February this year.

Amazing seraces above our intricate descent from the mittaghorn.

Just a bit excited about that amazing descent.

 

And some good old heather skiing to finish.. we were that desperate to stay on our skis.

 

 

A week in the west

Stob Coire nan Lochan

I had been in the day before with Andy to have a look at Spectre and Scabbard Chimney in Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glencoe,but there was fresh snow and a thaw going on and everything was just a little spooky. So we headed up Dorsal arete which was great to check out and new to me still.
So the following day I returned to get on Scabbard Chimney with Ian, it was still a bit warm but such a beautiful day . We topped out to fantastic views and pretty much had the whole of the Coire and the peak to ourselves. It felt very alpine, soft spring snow, longer days and eating our sarnie's in our t-shirts in the sun at the end of the day , looking back up at the snowy peaks.

Ian have a great time following up the first pitch.

Ian cruising off on the second pitch

Doing the tourist bit on the tops, and dreaming up mega ski descents in the corries behind.

 

Two days in the Sunshine Teaching and Guiding Ellie and Greg

So I thought we would do some of the classics seeing as it was going to be two high pressure blue sky days. Ledge route on day one and we let a group head off infront of us so we had the space to allow ellie and greg to lead a pitch each.

 

Ellie setting off on the first rising traverse pitch, focusing on positive foot placements.

Ellie bringing greg up.

A bit of piton placement skills at the belay, ellie having a go.

Greg bringing ellie up to his belay.

On the ridge and time  for some short roping to move us swifty to the top.

 

 

Curved Ridge

 

The second day me and Ellie headed for Glencoe with an early start of beat the crowds on Cuved ridge. It was in fantastic condition, the rock was rocky, the snow, snowy and the ice icy. It was very alpine in atmosphere. A girly ascent, looking a little like twins in our orange helmets and blonde hair. We were off the route before twelve so we had a leisurely lunch enjoying the views and the headed off to the munros behind, which was also had to ourselves. Back at the car by 3.30 for tea and medals. Fantastic couple of days out!

Ellie dancing her way up the crux corner.

A photo of our next objective.

 

Highlights of March so far

The Cairngorms - Aladdins Buttress

The beginning of March was seeing good conditions in the Cairngorms, where everywhere else seemed to still be burried aladdins buttress in Coire an T-Sneachda was in fantastic conditions and became the stanage of winter climbing, I have never had such sociable belays in winter. I managed to tick a good number of routes on this buttress leaving a select few for next time.
The First day out with josh, I got to lead all day, which is always nice as this was josh's intro to some harder winter climbing, his first season this year. We got on Damnation VI 6, The Lamp V,6 and Doctors Choice with some nice ice at the bottom. More ice in sneachda than on the Ben at the start of March.

Me leading up the corner pitch of damnation. Brilliant neve ice up the corner and then interesting mixed climbing above.

 

The next couple of days I was joined by Kevin from Northern Ireland, who was over with Tollymore national outdoor centre for Northern Ireland. He had been doing winter skills and navigation during the week so with a good weather forecast for the weekend he was itching to get out and swing his axes again. So we did The Prodigal Principal V,5, The Third Wish V,7 and Pateys route.

Kevin on the first pitch of The prodigal Principle

Kevin with some people retreating behind him after taking a wrong turn on The Lamp.

Having abseiled into Aladdins couloir and walk down it and watch others ski down it, all week, I decided it was my turn and went skiing on saturday. Blue bird day and 6 inches of fresh powder we had a few runs in the ski area before setting off up Cairngorm to go and check out Aladdins Couloir... which was fantastic, fresh tracks all the way down and all the way out of the Coire. I think that has to be my best day skiing in Scotland so far.

Me rather excited about dropping into aladdins, the last time I did this was after working with the Ski School after heading up it in the Moonlight before work that morning. Both times were pretty special.

 

Beinn Bhan

 

Next stop Beinn Bhan with Greg and Andy. Two days introduction to winter climbing for Greg and a building on skills for Andy. We did North Gully on Beinn Bhan, the intention perhaps to head up and over the A Cioche ridge as well but the conditions were thawing rapidly so we gave the teaching priority and practise plenty of skills, looked at lots of different options for belays and got plenty of practise at the art of climbing steep soft snow.

 

Greg and andy enjoying the waterfall effect on the belay.

Andy getting stuck in digging a bucket seat

 

 

 

 

Bomber Neve in the Cairngorms!

The weather was looking brightest East or North on Tuesday... Lochnagar...?? hmmm no idea what the conditions are like, turns out there have been loads of cornice colapses and avalanches. Ben Eighe? It would have been good but I had a 5am start to get to Balahulish for work the next day, I was lacking the psyche for lots of long drives. So we opted for the Cairngorms, initiatly on a mission for Stags rocks but with the wind and rain battering on the side of the car at Seven in the morning  in the ski car park, we opted for an easier day in the Northern corries.
The Genie followed by Pygmy ridge a great link up and what awesome condition they were in! I dont think we could claim technical 7 for the Genie when it had ice and neve to hit into rather than a sketchy lay away, I might add I did test the lay away up the corner but couldnt resist the neve. It did howl all day so on topping out we escaped quickly down Aladdins couloir, back at the car park for 3pm. Great day out and good decisions made!

Me checking out the crux, its looking good!

I did say it was windy and snowy!?

Since being over on the west coast alot, I had forgotten what the cairngorms were like... a brilliant insitu belay just where I wanted it.

Ian starting up pygmy ridge.

Ian enjoying yet more bomber neve.