tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40997767973368879582024-02-07T11:44:58.828-08:00Lou ReynoldsLou Reynolds - Mountaineering, Climbing and Skiing Instructor Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-17815926639935163912014-08-22T08:30:00.000-07:002014-08-22T08:30:03.915-07:00Road trip to the Alps and North Wales<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Summer holiday!! Having had a great time on Skye and had plenty of leg fitness training, its time to get the arms going again. So I loaded up my very small Fiat Panda and headed down to wales to catch up with some friends and do some climbing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I managed to do some climbing at Gogarth,in llanberis pass, Tremadog and at the Orme. Heres a few picures of some sunny climbing in the pass.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Matt on the first belay of 'Super Direct' on Dinas Mot, looking down Llanberis pass behind.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Matt about to commit to some crux moves on the final pitch.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">From wales I collected a good old friend Andy who I have had many a winter adventure with, always with good spirit and laughter. We headed out to alps and ended up in Saas Fee for abit of free uplift acclimatisation. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the way up the Allalinhorn, a pretty easy 4000er but great to acclimatise with a sleep back in the valley. If you stay in Saas Fee or Saas Grund in the campsites, the uplift is free. Pretty useful knowledge. </span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That night there was an almighty thunderstorm and Andys tent got flooded. Waking to damp kit and drizzle we ditched our next climbing plan and headed fr Chamonix to get some Beta and see what we could do next.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Aiguille Du Peigne. Another off the lift aclimatisation peak inbetween poor weather days. I had done the pappilons arete before so we did the Lepiodoters route and on to the summit via the normal route.</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Loads of inspiring routes to go back for on that peak.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally we went for the North Face of the Grand Paradiso, a nice warm up for North Face climbing. This was a last minute decision as there was another one day weather window. The hut was full so we Bivied, which was great and a cool spot for Andy's first Bivy.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We didnt have it to ourselves, in true alpine style, eveyone climbed together. </span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the final summit ridge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We left the Alps early due to frustration with the weather. So I headed back to Devon to see family and old friends and catch up on some sun bathing before returning to North Wales for some more rock climbing fun.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A different method of trying to get Sophie back to the first bolt. Not very often the belayer gets higher than the climber.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Blair showing us how its done on aparently the best 7c in North wales in beautiful evening sun, after we got rained off Grochan in the Llanberis pass that morning. I stuck to my 6c.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A day at Tremadog with Emma dodging showers.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Me squirming on Barbarian</span></div>
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Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-73457469202531974932014-07-13T05:47:00.000-07:002014-07-13T05:47:58.045-07:00The last adventures from skye.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Kelly came over to skye for her first skye experience. She did her first mountain ridge experience with me this winter on the CMD arete ad round o Ben Nevis. I think she was hooked straight away, and since has been getting out learning to rock climb and wanted to see what all the fuss was on skye. So we had a day at Elgol enjoying the sun and taste of the sea air on some steep clean sandstone rock followed by a day in the mountains on Pinnacle ridge up to Sgurr nan Gillean and on to Am Basteir to abseil down Kings cave Chimney where we managed to get the rope stuck. Kelly got a half hour break where I demonstrated some problem solving and prusuking back up the rope.</div>
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Kelly at Suidhe Biorach on her first sea cliff route - fertility right</div>
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Kelly abseiling down to the clif ledge that was exciting in the choppy sea. </div>
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Kelly showing off some great bridging techniques of the more technical fertility left.</div>
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Kelly abseiling down for a lesson in jamming on jamie jampots. </div>
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Evening sun on rum, we definatley picked the right location, it as wet and windy in the mountains, we were basking in sunshine with a fine breeze to keep the midges away and the whole crag to ourselves. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Team Dunsmuir</span></div>
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This adventurous pair have been out in the Cuillin with Skye Guides a number of times before, they started on the Munro bagging quest and in the process were opened up to all possibilities of more exciting and adventurous ways to the top of lots of the peaks in the Cuillin. Sadly they have a curse of bringing the rain and wind with them, 5th time to skye and eventually we got good enough weather to do the Innacessible Pinnacle, and still it was raining.</div>
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We started the three days with the most adventurous way to the top... Nasmiths route on the Bhasteir tooth and up to Am Basteir. This was the highlight as it was their first multi- pitch mountain route. </div>
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Stuart on the final pitch of Nasmiths route, quick before the rain.</div>
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Half way up the Innaccessible pinnacle</div>
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Reaching the top. </div>
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Proud of their ascent and safely at the bottom of this magnificent prow of rock. We continued on to do the rest of the corrie laggan peaks, abseiling down Kings chimney to add to the excitement. A good day out in the wet. Despite the weather we achieved all of their objectives and more and they have completed all of their munro's on Skye but are already planning their next adventure with Skye Guides. I think rock climbing is the desire. </div>
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Off to North wales now for my own holidays... sunny rock climbing and then out to the Alps. </div>
<br />Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-50933156056939583962014-07-04T12:12:00.003-07:002014-07-04T12:12:49.750-07:00The latest Cuillin traversesUntil the last few days the weather has been great on Skye and the west coast of Scotland in general. I have been out in the Cuillin a lot with a couple of Cuillin traverses, one with the 'Rush team of four' and guided along side Murdoch Jamison and another with Mark all the way from Australia. Both trips starting from the boat in Elgol and finishing at Sgurr nan Gillean, completing the traverse from end to end with all the major summit reached along the way. Mark had previous climbing experience so we got a days training in at Neist before hitting the more technical sections of the ridge such as the TD gap and nasmiths route. This is always great for me to get stuck in to some climbing along the ridge too. <br />
Inbetween traverse excitement I have had some other great days on the hill, completing Munro's and doing some classic harder scramble even despite a bit of rain. Thanks to all the enthusiastic and Cuillin made clients I have had. Here are a few pictures of some of the action. <br />
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Mark on tatties at Neist</div>
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Mark enjoying the snshine on The Green Lady at Neist</div>
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Beginning the traverse from the Boat at Elgol.</div>
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Mark getting stuck in on the notorious TD gap.</div>
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Eveing sun on the Innaccesible pinnacle</div>
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Still smiling on a wet abseil on Bidean druim na Rahm</div>
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a beautiful sunset as the finish to a great traverse</div>
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Team 'Rush' on the Inn Pinn</div>
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Abseiling off the Inn Pinn. </div>
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I have five more days of work on skye, hopefully with a great combination of climbing and scrambling, before heading down to North Wales with Tamsin to get a week of rock climbing in. Hopefully plenty of mileage, laugher and a welsh cake or two. </div>
Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-63852574218755365022014-06-27T14:01:00.000-07:002014-06-27T14:01:04.592-07:00Climbing in the North West<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I managed to get off skye for a few trips further north and west in the last few weeks, the first to Ardmair near Ullapool with guy. Great crag, loads of brilliant routes, very gritstone in style and appearance. I had to get my Jam on. Following this I got a couple of days at Ben Eighe with Matt and Ed, camping in the Corrie and climbing until it got dark. I had to leave early today as I had traverse on the Cuillin to get ready for. Truely fantastic climbing up there in an aw inspiring surrounding. </div>
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Arriving by the loch, swimming then climbing, or climbing then swimming was the debate... only me that wanted to swim strangely. </div>
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What a camp spot. </div>
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Angel Face</div>
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Matt on the Crux pitch of Angel face</div>
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Top out grin!</div>
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Matt getting his groove on high up on 'Groovin high'</div>
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Evening sun on the final pitch</div>
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Ardmair</h3>
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Guy on town without pity</div>
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<br />Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-40518850696920246252014-05-27T15:15:00.001-07:002014-05-27T15:15:11.815-07:00Highlights from Skye so far<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Since returning from fairhead at the beginning of May, I have been living and working on Skye mostly mountaineering work in the Cuillin a mixture of day trips and overnight cuillin traverses as well as some great rock climbing day both coastal and in the Cuillin. Each day has been unique with fantastic keen clients and a massive variety of new and old options to explore on the Island. It is definately has to be up there as one of the best places to work. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Rubha Hunish</span></div>
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And a few good days off cragging. </div>
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Ian seconding Minch and tatties</div>
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Ian leading up the second pitch of Master of Morgana</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The Cioche in style</span></div>
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These two chaps were a pleasure to be out with for three days, they were inspiring still so passionate about the mountains and keen to scramble and climb at the the age of 68. So we started with a trip up the cioche and arthur thompson route above to finish off. The crag was a bit damp but they managed well and we had many interesting chats about routes they had previously done on this crag in the 60's and how methods and gear had changed. </div>
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Highlander retake... now they just need to go and watch the film to understand.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Clach Glas and Bla Bheinn</span><br />
The matterhorn of the Cuillin, clach glas bla bheinn traverse has to be one of my favourite outtings in the Cuillin, plenty of interest both in route finding and climbing. We had the perfect weather so made the most of it. <br />
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Rod and Philip on the final pitch up onto Bla bheinn. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Pre traverse training at Neist Point</span></div>
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Joe had been to the Cuillin two years previously and definately got the Cuillin bug, so she was back for a traverse and got some good weather and climbing in too. We started at neist point for some training, climbing, abseiling, movement and generally having a good time getting to know one another without too much uphill walking to save ourselves for the traverse starting the next day. </div>
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Joe seconding Tatties at Destitution point</div>
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Joe on the Green lady, good to get on a stack.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Speedy start for the traverse</span></div>
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And so we set off for the south end of the ridge, a true traverse end to end. This is a great way to start, speeding towards the Cuillin in a rib with just the two of us, getting dropped off next to the seals and setting foot up the steep slopes to Garsbheinn with none-one around. We had gear stashed at Sgur a Ghreadaidh so with lighter packs we managed to get to all the summits and do pretty much all the interesting climbing sections such as the TD gap (some what damp) and the Kings Chimney. </div>
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Joe making light work of the slightly damp and thrutch TD gap. </div>
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Joe pulling through on Kings Chimney on Sgur Mhichonnich</div>
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Dinner and sunset on the Bivy, it can't really get much better. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Cioche West </span></div>
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Traverse complete, a fair bit of rain on the second day meant the camera didnt come out so much and we got our heads down to get to the end, but we still did all the peaks. Joe was super chuffed but still full on energy on finishing so we planned for yet another day in the hills to do a route on Sron na Ciche. </div>
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Joe on the cioche west crux traverse.</div>
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The final knife edge arete of the cioche nose onto the cioche.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Sunshine at Elgol</span></div>
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Today I met Michael for the first of three days rock climbing in and around the Cuillin, he is keen to develop his indoor rock climbing to outside and do some multipitch routes. So we covered all the basics at elgol and got plenty of mileage under the belt including a couple of E1's which was a great start for him on his first day back on rock this summer. </div>
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Michael throwing for the last holds against the pump on Angel of sharkness. </div>
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<br />Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-27472898512686322072014-05-27T12:43:00.002-07:002014-05-27T12:43:51.140-07:00Fairhead - The best climbing in the UK? <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having been told by all Northern Irish people I had met that this was by far the best crag in the UK, I thought I should probably go and find out if I agreed. I climbed with Kevin for a couple of days this winter in the Cairngorms and having had lots of fun and adventures we hatched a plan for a trip to Fairhead. Kevin was the perfect guide, knowing the crag well with inside knowledge of the fairhead grading and what was clean. This is something I would recommend, local knowledge is definately helpful at Fairhead or I would have jumped on a few things that are far out of my abilities and spent much more of the day trying to work out where to ab into my route. He also picked me up, provided food (thanks to Tollymore), sleeping facilities, transport so I just packed harness, helmet, shoes and chalk and plenty of psyche. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We started gently on the bally castle descent gully and soon got on a route which was not totally of fairhead style, Run fast run free E3, with a jump in the middle and a strange eliminate start.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kevin getting gear before the crux on Run fast, run free. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was loving the interest and long sustained climbing at fairhead, so was keen to get on the longest face... Am Bealach Runda it was... meaning the secret way and it definately was. Most of my chimney moves and squirming has been in winter, so I put it to practise on this route.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kevin seconding the first chimney pitch inside the amazing hexagonal pillars.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Me pulling some chimney drop knee moves. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This was a great start to the trip, we finished, ate and made excited plans for the next day.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Me on the fantastic Hurricane putting in a struggle as I found out Kevins hand jams were off widths for me. I resorted to some strenuous laybacking up the crux of this one.</span> <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Doldrum</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As if we hadn't done enough at six in the evening we thought we would just ab in for another 3 pitch route, with the rain spitting, above... ah it will clear up! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So some of this route had fallen away last year and been upgraded to E2, we think we actually did the second ascent after the rock fall and regrading. Kevin was keen to get on this crazy offiwdth chimney, I was keen for a challenge as long as the rope was above me on this pitch. Very excited to see the size 6 cams in action.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kevin starting up the chimney pitch with the rack of gods. This was a crazy route, I used every move in the book and more and the upper section turned to an ice rink in the rain. Awesome lead by kevin, we came out stinking of pond and throughly shattered. Fish and chips and beer in Bally castle were in order.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next day at The Prow was an active rest day after leaving bally castle at 1am in the morning and waking to find every muscle and more were aching. Whilst at the crag we met a friendly pigeon and Kevin tried to teach it about off widths and cams.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And the proceeded to get on another one... there is unfinished business there.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The last day started on the Stoat, which i decided needed some cleaning attention before I was going to make further progress on, so we finished up Hell kitchen before the rain set in. We got away with alot of threatening spitting all week but it properly rained this time. Thankfully we were tired and satified so enjoyed the cafe. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So to answer my initial question, I think so far it might have to be, there is so much potential at fairhead and totally absorbing massive steep strenuous different climbing. I will definately back!</span> </div>
Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-54969612200538966732014-05-13T15:33:00.000-07:002014-05-13T15:33:05.427-07:00April Alpine trip<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">April had arrived already, so I set off for the alps with the hope of some climbing and ski touring and hopefully some sun. The result was some sun.. some snow a little too much time on the planks and not so much climbing but still a good trip. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I certainly learnt a good few life lessons on this trip and gained some good ski touring experience in slightly challenging conditions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A good couple of days on the Verbier haute route with guy</span>. </div>
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Guy on the summit ridge to Rosa Blancha</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Two nights in the Dix hut so we went for this peak, which I had aspired to climb when walking the Chamonix Zermatt haute route with my Mum as a teenager. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Following this there was an atempt on a north face, and some sunny rock climbing and relaxing in the valley before I set off on another tour this time to the Bernese Oberland with Matt. The weather forecast was looking variable but we went for it and achieved more than we expected. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The first day up the from the Jungfraujoch train to the monchjochhut was a full on scottish winter skin, thankfully there were poles to follow and a hut to hide in. Then the weather cleared and we headed to the Gross Fischerhorn with an open mind as we didnt know how much snow and fresh windslab we might have to avoid. I broke trail in to the climb to the col and we noticed some unnerving whumphing sounds under our feet but the steep ascent was fairly scoured.</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Matt on the rocky ridge up to the Gross Fischerhorn</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Very quick summit shots on the Gross Fischerhorn looking to the Kleine Fischerhorn and Grun horn, before a rapid descent to get down the dangerous crevased section of the glacier Walliser Fischerfern before the visibility left once again and the weather closed in.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The most gripping descent I have done yet... similar to a roller coaster, with sections of track missing and no seat belt. Thankfully the cloud stayed off until we were down on the flat of the glacier. Matt on the right on the final friendly section after negotiating some rather thin snow bridges.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Skinning up to the Gross GrunHorn, many thanks to the guide who broke trail all the way!</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Narrow snowy summit ridge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Woop woop...Pow pow, amazing descent 900m fresh tracks. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In high spirits we set off for the 8km gradual ascent to the Holandia hut... spirits were slightly lower by the time we got to the hut but the warm welcome from a friend of matts, the guardian in the Holandia hut made up for it.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Final day setting off from the lovely, friendly Holandia hut up to Mittaghorn for a descent we have been told about all week.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">More Pow Pow.. photos from Nicolas who we befriended in the hut and have persuaded to return for another go at Scottish winter this coming year. I couldn't leave him put off after a wet and windy visit in February this year.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Amazing seraces above our intricate descent from the mittaghorn.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just a bit excited about that amazing descent.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And some good old heather skiing to finish.. we were that desperate to stay on our skis.</span> </div>
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Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-71183982539744838882014-03-14T07:28:00.003-07:002014-03-14T07:28:53.697-07:00A week in the west<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Stob Coire nan Lochan</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had been in the day before with Andy to have a look at Spectre and Scabbard Chimney in Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glencoe,but there was fresh snow and a thaw going on and everything was just a little spooky. So we headed up Dorsal arete which was great to check out and new to me still. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So the following day I returned to get on Scabbard Chimney with Ian, it was still a bit warm but such a beautiful day . We topped out to fantastic views and pretty much had the whole of the Coire and the peak to ourselves. It felt very alpine, soft spring snow, longer days and eating our sarnie's in our t-shirts in the sun at the end of the day , looking back up at the snowy peaks.</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ian have a great time following up the first pitch. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ian cruising off on the second pitch</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Doing the tourist bit on the tops, and dreaming up mega ski descents in the corries behind.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Two days in the Sunshine Teaching and Guiding Ellie and Greg</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">So I thought we would do some of the classics seeing as it was going to be two high pressure blue sky days. Ledge route on day one and we let a group head off infront of us so we had the space to allow ellie and greg to lead a pitch each. </span></div>
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Ellie setting off on the first rising traverse pitch, focusing on positive foot placements.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ellie bringing greg up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A bit of piton placement skills at the belay, ellie having a go.</span> </div>
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Greg bringing ellie up to his belay.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the ridge and time for some short roping to move us swifty to the top.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Curved Ridge</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The second day me and Ellie headed for Glencoe with an early start of beat the crowds on Cuved ridge. It was in fantastic condition, the rock was rocky, the snow, snowy and the ice icy. It was very alpine in atmosphere. A girly ascent, looking a little like twins in our orange helmets and blonde hair. We were off the route before twelve so we had a leisurely lunch enjoying the views and the headed off to the munros behind, which was also had to ourselves. Back at the car by 3.30 for tea and medals. Fantastic couple of days out!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ellie dancing her way up the crux corner.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A photo of our next objective.</span> </div>
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<br />Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-83403655496480102852014-03-14T06:32:00.002-07:002014-03-14T06:32:20.805-07:00Highlights of March so far<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The Cairngorms - Aladdins Buttress</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The beginning of March was seeing good conditions in the Cairngorms, where everywhere else seemed to still be burried aladdins buttress in Coire an T-Sneachda was in fantastic conditions and became the stanage of winter climbing, I have never had such sociable belays in winter.</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I managed to tick a good number of routes on this buttress leaving a select few for next time.</span> <br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The First day out with josh, I got to lead all day, which is always nice as this was josh's intro to some harder winter climbing, his first season this year.</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We got on Damnation VI 6, The Lamp V,6 and Doctors Choice with some nice ice at the bottom. More ice in sneachda than on the Ben at the start of March.</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Me leading up the corner pitch of damnation. Brilliant neve ice up the corner and then interesting mixed climbing above. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next couple of days I was joined by Kevin from Northern Ireland, who was over with Tollymore national outdoor centre for Northern Ireland. He had been doing winter skills and navigation during the week so with a good weather forecast for the weekend he was itching to get out and swing his axes again. So we did The Prodigal Principal V,5, The Third Wish V,7 and Pateys route.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kevin on the first pitch of The prodigal Principle</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kevin with some people retreating behind him after taking a wrong turn on The Lamp.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having abseiled into Aladdins couloir and walk down it and watch others ski down it, all week, I decided it was my turn and went skiing on saturday. Blue bird day and 6 inches of fresh powder we had a few runs in the ski area before setting off up Cairngorm to go and check out Aladdins Couloir... which was fantastic, fresh tracks all the way down and all the way out of the Coire. I think that has to be my best day skiing in Scotland so far.</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Me rather excited about dropping into aladdins, the last time I did this was after working with the Ski School after heading up it in the Moonlight before work that morning. Both times were pretty special.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Beinn Bhan</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Next stop Beinn Bhan with Greg and Andy. Two days introduction to winter climbing for Greg and a building on skills for Andy. We did North Gully on Beinn Bhan, the intention perhaps to head up and over the A Cioche ridge as well but the conditions were thawing rapidly so we gave the teaching priority and practise plenty of skills, looked at lots of different options for belays and got plenty of practise at the art of climbing steep soft snow.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Greg and andy enjoying the waterfall effect on the belay. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Andy getting stuck in digging a bucket seat</span></div>
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Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-75642329378320356162014-02-27T04:19:00.001-08:002014-02-27T04:19:12.841-08:00Bomber Neve in the Cairngorms!<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The weather was looking brightest East or North on Tuesday... Lochnagar...?? hmmm no idea what the conditions are like, turns out there have been loads of cornice colapses and avalanches. Ben Eighe? It would have been good but I had a 5am start to get to Balahulish for work the next day, I was lacking the psyche for lots of long drives. So we opted for the Cairngorms, initiatly on a mission for Stags rocks but with the wind and rain battering on the side of the car at Seven in the morning in the ski car park, we opted for an easier day in the Northern corries. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Genie followed by Pygmy ridge a great link up and what awesome condition they were in! I dont think we could claim technical 7 for the Genie when it had ice and neve to hit into rather than a sketchy lay away, I might add I did test the lay away up the corner but couldnt resist the neve. It did howl all day so on topping out we escaped quickly down Aladdins couloir, back at the car park for 3pm. Great day out and good decisions made!</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Me checking out the crux, its looking good!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I did say it was windy and snowy!?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Since being over on the west coast alot, I had forgotten what the cairngorms were like... a brilliant insitu belay just where I wanted it.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ian starting up pygmy ridge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ian enjoying yet more bomber neve.</span> </div>
Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-27354444184006861412014-02-25T12:41:00.004-08:002014-02-25T12:41:54.508-08:00Tower Ridge <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yesterday I was working for Mike Pescod as an MIC aspirant, on Tower ridge. A Brilliant day, calmer conditions in comparison to most of the winter, although still snowing consisently higher up. This sadly resulting in yet another avalanche on Ben nevis, and this time with two climbers caught up in it. We were in a good place up on the ridge. This was my first time on tower ridge this year and I couldnt believe the amount of snow, it looked a little different, with the usual belays somewhat hidden. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A great day out with the group of three over from Ireland. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fantastic snow crests along the ridge.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kieran on one of the pitches on the little tower.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The eastern traverse</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kieran coming out of the tower gap, still smiling!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A very white walk off for the team.</span> </div>
Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-80576409327205898152014-02-23T13:37:00.005-08:002014-02-23T13:37:58.786-08:00Back to Reality - Scottish winter update<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The past three weeks have been a bit hectic and I have not had chance to get photos uploaded each evening between unpacking, repacking, eating washing and sleeping. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Since returning from Spain I got straight back out in the hill with a windy ascent of ledge route, first winter day for Liam. Sadly following this there were a few attempted climbing days but the Ski road up to Cairngorm had been shut so coffee and cake ensued instead. What a hardship!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Josh and terry battling the wind on the final section of ledge route.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Following week I spent shadowing Mike Pescod for three days of coaching and guiding Kiernan on an introduction to mixed climbing. Kiernan is a keen ice climber and rock climber but being new to mixed climbing was seeking some instruction. We climbed a very snowy North east Buttress, all of two hard moves on the man trap, 999 in Coire nan Lochan and Crest route in Stob Coire nan Lochan.</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">North East Buttress</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And the clouds cleared</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Busy in the hurt Lochan</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mike on the crux pitch of Crest Route</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">After these few days with Mike I headed straight back to the west for a week with Plas y Brenin on my MIC training, a great week thanks to Tim and Dave for running the course and everyone who was on the course. It was a wild week and I was too busy concentrating to take many pictures. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">My day off before a week of work with Glenmore Lodge and Pete hill, was a good weather day so me and Ian headed over to Stags rocks for some not so buried climbing and to place the first ice screws of the season on Ampitheartre Gully. Thankfully now upgraded to V,6 as I thought the crux was pretty stiff. Brilliant route, though sadly we didnt quite get off in time before the next storm hit so night navigation in 60mph winds ensued off the top of the route. If only they had opened the snow gates alittle sooner. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ian leading the ice pitch</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Gearing up at the top of Diagonal gully</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Me on the crux pitch, always make the mistake of saying it dosnt look too bad from the bottom!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thats me just about up to date so far.</span> </div>
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Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-67358474255102625392014-02-02T06:10:00.002-08:002014-02-02T06:10:18.779-08:00El Realet and the Penon de Ifach<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With all the trainee's having gained the knowledge they needed to go climbing themselves we gave them the chance for some indepence at the crag and had a couple of days to go and play ourselves. Day one we embarked on a traverse of El Realet, a grade 4 knife edge ridge, which was fantastic all the way, good scrambling, exposure and a few abseils. The only complaint was the spiky spanish bush whacking we had to do at both the start and finish of the day. I don't think this ridge see's much traffic. We completed this in half the guide book time so enjoyed relaxing with an ice cream in the afternoon. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Day two was a trip to the Penon de Ifach, a superb chunk of rock which protudes from the sea at Calpe. I had climbed on this a few times before but for me this was a new route, and a guide book top 50 route. Diedro USBA. Fantastic route, with great climbing exposure and variety. I throughly recommend it. For Liam this was his first big route so well done to him for keeping his head together in such an exposed situation. What a fantastic end to a brilliant Spanish rock climbing trip. Back to reality now in wild and windy Scotland.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Me entering the knife edge section.</span></div>
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Views along the ridge</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stephen leading the way for Liam yet another exposed section.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Day two on Diedro UBSA, stephen with a sore ankle recently sprained and trying to recover. This is him at the second belay before we had to say our fair wells and low him off. We continued as a three.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Liam following up the steep by jug filled second pitch</span>.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dance on stances as we made sure we had the essentials (i.e lunch) out of Stephens bag before we lowered him off.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Short abseil into the final part of the route. Liam feeling slightly exposed at this point.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Josh having found yet another knee bar giving a hands free wave on the final pitch.</span> </div>
Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-55873831199780125842014-01-19T13:47:00.001-08:002014-01-19T14:00:53.938-08:00Spanish rock with Trainee Instructor Students<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A brief summery interlude, and I am now in Spain, Costa Blanca, staying in a lovely Villa in the Xalo valley surrounded by lots of fantastic rock climbing. A large change from the wilds of Scottish winter. This is an area I have visited numerous times, it was my first taste of rock climbing, many years ago and for the next two weeks I am working here with an instructor training course based in the Scottish Highlands over the winter. For some this will be basically their first time on rock and for others we will be revisiting and improving skills they have already aquired. The aim of the trip is to come away with everyone sport and traditional lead climbing in preparation for their Single Pitch Award training. I am working alongside three other instructors, Stephen, Lena and Josh who are assisting in the process of teaching these nine students. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Heres a look at some of the things we have been up to:</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Day one at Sierra de Toix, a nice introduction by the sea with sunshine and warm rock... a different scene from scottish winter.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Simulating leading as a progression to Sport leading</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Day two at Echo Valley, a busy section as everyone gets stuck into sport leading.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lena on day three assisting me teaching traditional leading.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stephen supervising Duncan traditional lead climbing, debating a gear placement.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lunch time entertainment at Sierra de Toix TV; last year we watched planes drop water on the hill side below from this crag, as they tried to put out a natural fire. This year slightly more chilled watching parapenting above the crag.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Me and James experimenting with some new set up systems.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Trad and sport climbing at Alcalali, the local crag, we smuggly watched the heavy thunder showers on the other side of the valley.It has been a week of unsettled weather of which we have done very well to avoid most of the rain. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The forecast is looking good for the next week so we should get some more great climbing in. Day off tomorrow, some sunny sport climbing for the instructional staff and chance for the students to get a bit of practise in and some rest. </span></div>
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<br />Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-81528403439684393762014-01-13T14:54:00.001-08:002014-01-13T14:54:30.572-08:00Winter skills with James<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">James and I set off for three days of adventuring around the Cairngorms and an introduction to walking in the mountains in winter for James. We managed to visit most of the vacinity between the ski centre and Ben Macdui looking at snow craft skills, emergency shelters, avalanche awareness and winter navigation. We were blessed with some calmer weather and a good mix of beautiful views and poor visibility to hone in our navigation skills.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On our way up to Cairngorm, a break in the clouds while we were practising a navigational tool, aspect of slope. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Walking into Corrie an Lochain</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Where next??</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A winter mountain leader training group on the approach to the summit of Stob Corrie an Lochan</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A fine day in Corrie an T-Sneachda, plenty of climbers making their way in.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Emergency shelter building, better known as playing in the snow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Finished product.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the Summit of Ben Macdui, great navigation by James to get us there.</span> </div>
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Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-10132891416697563582014-01-08T09:51:00.000-08:002014-01-08T09:51:21.803-08:00White Magic... <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A good, if slightly soggy day was had by the three of us on White Magic in Coire an T-Sneachda. Thanks to Will for leading both myself and Gordon up the route which turned out to be quite a battle to protect. Brilliant climbing with icy hooks all the way up the crack even though it appeared to be thawing somewhat. Conditions will be great if it all freezes up tomorrow, although still plenty of digging for gear.</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Gordon following up the first pitch, brilliant ice on the face.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Will cruising up the not so well protected (magic) crack pitch. Fantastic ice hooks all the way.</span> </div>
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Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-77558128194797648162014-01-07T12:54:00.001-08:002014-01-07T12:54:51.606-08:00Winter Mountain Leader Training<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The First Winter Mountain Leader training of the year and a wild one it has been. They are off on expedition tomorrow night with Pete Hill the course provider. The wind looks to be in their favour, however the temperatures not so much. Potentially a wet night in a snowhole for them, all good training. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We have been exploring different winter skills techniques, security on steep ground and generally consolidating skills.</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Step cutting on the ridge up into Coire Laogh Mhor</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Donning the goggles for a windy blasting in coire and T-Sneachda. Still all smiling.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Avalanche debris from cornice colapse, between the Mess of Potage and Aladdins buttress. A very white corrie, wet wind slab, conditions looking pretty tricky. We stuck to the moraine for some digging and tranceiver skills. </span> </div>
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Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-60759676786041762882014-01-02T01:44:00.001-08:002014-01-02T02:06:53.100-08:00Original Route and Auricle<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yet another windy scottish winter day and we sneak out to see if we might get chance to tacle fingers ridge or atleast steal another route before christmas. We kept the options fairly open as the forecast was for increasingly stronger winds. In the end we opted for Original route in Coire an T-Sneachda, which was a brilliant choice with westerly winds, once up the first pitch you are sheltered all the way to the top by a corner and the rest of aladdins buttress to the right. We were excited to find some neve, the first of the season, so Josh got to swing his axes into something solid for the first time.</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The clouds breaking to reveal a wintering looking coire.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Me on the first pitch, some nice neve up the corner</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Josh following up the final tricky corner.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Auricle</span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">30th of December, Straight back from a cozy visit to Devon for christmas and feeling the need to burn off some mince pies. I teamed up with Dave Sharpe to follow up Auricle in Coire an Lochan. This route was a little above my grade for leading, but a great oportunity to second. Quite a tough little number, i didnt manage many photos as I was attentively belaying. It rained all the way on the walk in until the bottom of the coire but the temperatures dropped and then it snow persistently all day, peas soup and a bit of careful navigation required on the walk off. The snow created trouble for other teams trying to top out through unstable cornices.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dave on the crux pitch, steeper and harder than it looks from the bottom. Some thin moves on poor hooks or a very long reach.</span> </div>
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Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-59069351886382710582013-12-19T10:08:00.001-08:002013-12-19T10:08:17.015-08:00Winter begins<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The start of Scottish winter has been fleeting, you have had to grab it when it comes, but I think it has finally arrived. I have managed to steal a few routes so far: The message, Savage Slit and Hidden Chimney. Hopefully more to come this weekend with recent heavy snow fall. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The Message</span> </h3>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The first taste of snow in November and a few excited phone calles later, we are heading in to the Northern Corries to see what was happening. Turf... not frozen, but there was plenty of snow and the buttresses were white with rhyme ice so we picked one of a few select routes that we felt were inkeeping with the ethics. The message, a route which was on both our hit lists for this coming winter so we were chuffed to start the season with this classic.</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Andy bridging up the classic corner pitch.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A momentary break in the clag on our way down.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Hidden Chimney</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">For Josh his first winter route, a much cheerier finish than our first outing which sadly involved a rescue of a fallen climber outside of our party. </span> </div>
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<br />Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4099776797336887958.post-84032517695426507052013-12-16T10:12:00.001-08:002013-12-19T09:23:29.073-08:00El Chorro<br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">November is the time for sunny sport climbing trips, to escape the darkening nights and damp scottish weather. So we set off on a girls rock trip to El Chorro, a well known sport climbing destination in the south of Spain. An area new to us all. Myself and Nona headed out first from scotland to be joined by team North wales, Megan and Siobhan later in the week. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Frontales, only 10 minutes from our accomodation at the Olive Branch in El chorro village, we climbed at sector solarium to soak up some winter sun. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A cold start to the week so we went to explore the historic camina del rey ( kings walkway) and the magnificent gorge.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Nona on valentines day, great four pitch route at sector Austria. Check out our colour co-ordination.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Megan and Siobhan arrived and we got stuck in for a team ascent of the classic; Amptrax (6a). Plenty of colour and laughter, it was lucky we had the route to ourselves. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Nona on the classic traverse pitch of Amptrax</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Trying my best to enjoy slabs at Turon.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Bladerunner and El Canalillo de la mari, fantastic lines at Esalera Arabe </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">By the end of our ten days we had managed to visit most of the major crags around El Chorro, drink plenty of wine and perhaps get a little stronger. </span></div>
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<br />Lou Reynoldshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05326360963440035065noreply@blogger.com0